Audi a4 wheel bearing replacement tools

I would say the garage prices are fair for the work. Not a rip off but not super cheap "too good to be true" prices either. That quote is just a realistic cost. However if you want to do it, watch some YouTube videos first to get a good idea as to what is involved and parts can be had from CarParts4Less.

Registered User. Done both my fronts now, avant and I would agree with All of the above, and it saved me writing all that out. Ginge Registered User. Don't buy cheap replacements either or you will likely be doing it all again soon! I did read somewhere that the oe bearings were made by FAG but I'm not sure, I'm sure someone will know. Should be noted even the pros can screw it up. Had the rear wheel bearing done on my old A4 2. I insisted on FAG bearing. Within a month the same corner was creating a tell-tale drone at 40mph.

To be fair they took it back and refitted a replacement bearing. When the new bearing is pressed in it can be damaged if they're not careful, using wrong press cup for example or it's pressed in at an angle. Or pressed in at an angle with a hammer. I do pretty much everything on my car but took it to an Indy to get the bearing done because the bearing is a real pig to get out of the carrier. I ordered an SNR item from carparts4less as it worked out cheaper than what the indie were quoting for the part and they sent an FAG bearing instead.

I might just give it a bash myself to be fair, i should have all the tools at work, I'm sure some of the old timers can bail me out if i get in a sticky situation lol, ill do a lot more research online and get familiar with the process first. Thanks for the help everyone! Much appreciated! MagpieMatt if you fancy doing it yourself give this video a watch. One of the easiest wheel bearings I've done is the B8. The hub is stepped so getting it out of the old bearing takes much less time.

I think from being on all 4 wheels to being back on all 4 wheels was less than an hour without a press. Done 30k since and all seems well. Mine went whilst i was on holiday in Italy last year. An Audi garage there quoted me euros lol. That video make it look straight forward. The fact it's a bolt on hub is easy. I'm surprised the guy isn't wearing gloves I glove up like a medic in ER! Gloves what is the world coming to, wear your scars with pride after 11 years as an hgv fitter I don't have a single knuckle that doesn't have some sort of scar on it Wait now that I think about it yes go with the gloves.

I watched the mechanic pressing the old bearing out of the hub and he was struggling with a 10 ton press and all the correct adaptors and spacers. I spoke to him and he said some just fly out whilst others are a pig. Mine was a pig. I only recently started wearing gloves to work on the car a few years ago. I quite often wear them now and find them really good especially when working with hot stuff.

Zafi Registered User. Put the new bearing in the freezer for an hour. Wheel Bearing - Priced Each. Spindle Housing Spreader Tool. Complete Wheel Bearing Kit. Wheel Hub - Priced Each. Wheel Bearing Replacement Kit - 24 Pieces. Qty: Availability: Ships by Jan 17, Screw - Priced Each. CV-2 Grease with Moly - 14oz Tube. Wheel Bearing Kit - Priced Each. Additionally, there are several single-use fasteners that should be replaced when the lower arms are unbolted, adding to repair expense. Use a large breaker bar and long 17mm hex head driver to loosen the axle nut.

Note: The axle retaining bolt can also be removed with an impact gun and hex driver after the vehicle is raised and the wheels have been removed. Pull the sensor from the housing. A slight twisting motion will help remove it, but be sure to treat the sensor and its wiring carefully.

Carefully remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the U-shaped bracket on the inside of the steering knuckle. Timesaver Tip: There is no need to remove the front brakes in pieces unless you are performing a brake service or inspection.

Unbolt the carrier from the knuckle, then remove the complete caliper assembly. After sliding the caliper assembly o the brake rotor, immediately support it by hanging it from a sturdy wire or heavy bungee cord. While this tool set was originally designed for use on rear wheel bearings, we found it useful for replacing the front bearings, too. Install the horseshoe press piece from the bearing kit arrow between the drive hub and knuckle, as shown arrow.

Screw them in until they contact the face of the horseshoe. Then alternately tighten the bolts to press the drive hub from the wheel bearing. Both bearings usually stay inside the bearing housing as the hub comes out. This time, the outer wheel bearing comes out, and its inner race sticks to the neck of the drive hub. The bearing cage lifts o easily enough, but the race will have to be pressed or cut o before we can reinstall the drive hub in the new bearing.

Note: If you do not have a puller, you can use a high-speed abrasive cutting disk to cut a slit in the race. Cut almost through the race, then split it with a chisel to loosen and remove it. The split jaws grip at the base of the bearing race.

The puller bolts to the jaws. Place a flat disk on top of the hub, then turn the puller jack screw to pull the race from the hub. The wedge-shaped jaws in the split puller grip the lower edge of the inner race. Then, as the large central screw is turned, the jaws rise, pulling the race o the drive flange.

Use fine emery cloth to polish away small nicks or accumulations of rust. Polishing the flange neck and applying a lm of grease makes it easier to press the hub into the new bearing.

We work with the tool and components mounted securely in a vise for safety and convenience. The large hollow cup is placed over the drive hub. The long screw jack passes through the entire assembly. When the hub is pressed all the way in, remove the tool and lay the assembly aside while you remove the rest of the old bearing from the knuckle.

Remove the nut and drive out the long pinch bolt that secures the two upper link ball joints to the aluminum bearing holder horizontal arrow.

Then use a punch to drive the ball joint studs upward from their holes in the bearing holder vertical arrows. Tilt the bearing holder outward far enough to pull the drive axle o to the side to make working room. Rap on the heads of the loosened bolts to break the bearing housing free from the bearing holder. A hammer works; an air chisel with a flat head hammer bit does wonders pounding out corroded-in-place housings. When the housing breaks free, remove the four bolts completely.

Slide the bearing housing out of the knuckle. Discard the holder and bolts. It may be necessary to clean out the bearing holder. Ours is coated with heavy accumulations of road salt from many Ohio winters. A drill-mounted wire wheel removes the heavy crust. Take extra time to clean the mounting face where the bearing housing sits.

Slide the new bearing assembly with hub into the steering knuckle.